Further into this fascinating, quirky, craftsy part of town.
In one of my last posts I explored a bit of New Bohemia, part of Cedar Rapids’ Czech Village. This time, I’m exploring the heart of Czech Village itself – namely, 16th Street.
From Newbo Market and New Bohemia, downstream from Mays Island and city hall, I took the long, low bridge studded with lions over the Cedar river. I found a very different world on the other side. Gone were the hip vibes. Suddenly the scene resembled Europe – somewhere solemn in eastern Europe, where fun was a serious affair. A clock tower beside the end of the bridge chimed the hours.
I wandered the streets. There was a delicious-looking Czech bakery offering goulash and much more, a theatre with teenagers hanging around, bars and restaurants where families sat and enjoyed the food together. There was a vintage store, Found+Formed, with a remarkable range of vintage clothing offered.
Profiles of important Czechs adorned the outside walls of the bakery and a newly vacant building.
I wandered into White Lion Treasures, one of several interesting antique stores, and did a double take – the woman on the other side of the counter strongly resembled the pictures all around outside, but fresh and alive. Her hair curled around her forehead, almost doll-like, and she had very pink cheeks. She welcomed me in and as I browsed shared a little of Cedar Rapids and Czechtown, since she was a Cedar Rapids local. Her store was wonderful! I found this glassware – look at the beautiful detail!
Postcards made from historic photographs at the front showed an odd-looking building. Proceeds went to raise money to bring back the Roundhouse, the sign said. I bought a card with a picture that shows the old building design (below). The flood that devastated Cedar Rapids completely destroyed it. Here again, I saw how although the flood was a decade ago and much of the town has been rebuilt, the effects linger. The residents of Cedar Rapids press on, though.
As best I can tell, asking why about the area Czech heritage is a futile effort; there really isn’t a very satisfactory answer. The heritage is alive and well, though, and the Czech Heritage Foundation has a great website that you can explore here. Cedar Rapids also has a large museum just beside 16th street.
My favorite stop on 16th street was a shop called The Create Exchange. A big white double storefront on a corner, it’s hard to miss! Inside, I found the owner Jennifer working, and she provided a quick introduction to the shop. It has two parts. The first part is a craft supply store with bolts of fabric, yarn, scissors, thread, buttons (endless buttons), and everything else under the sun. All good are unpriced – customers pay whatever they believe is fair. Customers may also drop off supplies they don’t need and exchange them for what they do need. Unlike Michaels or JoAnn craft stores, there’s no way to predict inventory, but it’s a great first place to check if you have a project in mind. “We really took a hit on Popsicle sticks!” I heard Jennifer say while I was browsing. Apparently someone had needed them.
The second part of the store is a craft mall brimming with beautiful work by local artists.
I left Czech Village surprised by how completely different from New Bohemia it is and even more impressed by Cedar Rapids’ dedication to preserving Czech heritage in this part of town. It’s really a world apart… and nestled down between storefronts on 16th street, you can’t see that you’re flanked by a factory on one side and a landfill on the other.
~ The Dauntless Princess ~
